Ben Tibbetts - The 4000m Peaks of the Alps (Vol 1 West)

“The 4000m Peaks of the Alps – Volume 1 : West” is a lavishly illustrated guidebook for alpine climbing and ski mountaineering, with detailed diagrams and comprehensive information on every route. Ben has climbed nearly all the routes, and brings a wealth of personal knowledge and experience to this topo.

The book, the first of a two volumes, covers the 4000m peaks from the Barre des Écrins, Grand Paradiso across the whole Mont Blanc massif to the Weisshorn above Zermatt. It is illustrated with over 300 photos. 

The book describes the standard routes on each peak, as well a selection of the finest steeper lines.
 

Climbing the 4000m peaks of the Alps is one of the great and enduring challenges in mountaineering. It is a project that requires stamina, courage, skill and humility.

In this volume, IFMGA mountain guide, Ben Tibbetts, presents selected alpine climbs and ski mountaineering routes on the western 4000m peaks of the Alps. This book describes over 80 classic itineraries and provides the information needed to prepare and undertake each ascent.

Drawing on two decades of alpinism and image-making, each mountain entry features detailed photographic topos to assist in planning and route-finding. Having climbed most of the lines described, Ben has included a diverse selection of action photography to inspire and illustrate each route.

This book is replete with in-depth route information that is aimed at both the experienced mountaineers looking for a serious adventure in the high mountains and the aspiring alpinist setting out on their first major climb.

Routes

Though all of these peaks are already popular objectives, I have detailed the most interesting or beautiful routes, in addition to the easiest or most popular ways to the summit. Some of these lines are already classics, but many of the routes I describe are esoteric and lesser known gems, such as the Piccolo Paradiso Traverse or the North Ridge of the Dent du Géant, that will lead you into the hidden side of the Alps.

When compiling the original list of routes, I took the advice from a plethora of mountain guides and local climbers to cover a broad spectrum of Alpine climbing styles and difficulty (from grades PD to ED). The routes feature everything from rock faces, mixed north faces, ridges and ski tours. The selection covers all the seasons, and the info-sections provide detailed information on how to find the best conditions. The routes are illustrated with a wealth of climbing images from our ascent and landscape shots taken from adjacent summits.

To add a deeper context to the ascent of each summit, I have delved into the historical archives to retrieve fascinating morsels of information about the first ascents of these peaks and routes.

ÉCRINS MASSIF
Barre des Écrins

GRAN PARADISO
Gran Paradiso

MONT BLANC MASSIF
Aiguille de Bionnassay
Mont Blanc
Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey
Mont Maudit
Mont Blanc du Tacul
Dent du Géant
Dôme de Rochefort
Grandes Jorasses
Aiguille Verte
Aiguille du Jardin
Les Droites

PENNINE ALPS WEST
Grand Combin
Dent d'Hérens
Dent Blanche
Ober Gabelhorn
Zinalrothorn
Weisshorn
Bishorn